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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 04-11-2006, 04:33 PM
ta12sec ta12sec is offline
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very simialr to a lt1 then
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  #12 (permalink)  
Old 04-11-2006, 10:40 PM
WishIHadACamaro WishIHadACamaro is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcfletcher
Before I brought it over to him I took it out once more. I didn't take the time to notice it before, but it is the right turns that the car slips on. What about yours? He said it could be a few things causing the problem. If he comes up with a solid answer and solution I'll post it back here.

YEAH! Holy shit, its only when i make right turns. If its wet out just a little to hot on the gas pedal and boom ill be letting that right tire rip (no thanks stupid stock differential) and if i got enough acceleration ill fishtail.
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Old 04-11-2006, 11:10 PM
jcfletcher jcfletcher is offline
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:smt023 I've never dealt with anything to do with the rear-suspension, so it's all just a new experience. But I am positive that torque has absolutely nothing to do with the situation. It could be my lack of details in the explanation, I am not really sure. Anyway, at this point it would only be more hassle and people who asssume they know every aspect of the situation posting. No thanks, guys! I could show people better than telling them about it. No chance of that though. We obviously disagree and neither side has any solid reasoning to post or attempt to be condescending. I really don't want that in a club, thanks anyway.
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Old 04-12-2006, 10:05 AM
WishIHadACamaro WishIHadACamaro is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcfletcher
:smt023 I've never dealt with anything to do with the rear-suspension, so it's all just a new experience. But I am positive that torque has absolutely nothing to do with the situation. It could be my lack of details in the explanation, I am not really sure. Anyway, at this point it would only be more hassle and people who asssume they know every aspect of the situation posting. No thanks, guys! I could show people better than telling them about it. No chance of that though. We obviously disagree and neither side has any solid reasoning to post or attempt to be condescending. I really don't want that in a club, thanks anyway.

so your not going to tell me why both you and I have traction issues? And your not happy that people on the club have differing opinions? :smt090 :smt090 :smt090
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Old 04-14-2006, 02:44 PM
Z28SHAKER Z28SHAKER is offline
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sorry it took so long to reply, the reason that many f-bodys tend to do that is that the tq arm from the tranny is too long and flimsy and does not press down on the rear end enough, hence the cornering slip, and wheel hop . an upgrade is highly recommended. when yoiu hit a pothole or are turning and the body seems to sway from the rear it is from the stock stamped panhard rod, you should definately invest in a nice tubular (chromaloy reccomended) panhard bar, spohn controll arms would help also.
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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 04-15-2006, 05:22 AM
Rare4thgens Rare4thgens is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z28SHAKER
sorry it took so long to reply, the reason that many f-bodys tend to do that is that the tq arm from the tranny is too long and flimsy and does not press down on the rear end enough, hence the cornering slip, and wheel hop . an upgrade is highly recommended. when yoiu hit a pothole or are turning and the body seems to sway from the rear it is from the stock stamped panhard rod, you should definately invest in a nice tubular (chromaloy reccomended) panhard bar, spohn controll arms would help also.

Were you talking about slipping over bumps on a turn or just in general? I understand what you did to the car very well but the torque arm would have little effect on corning. Straght line traction and wheel hop, yes, especially if you set the pinion angle right (even a none adjustable with shims).

I noticed a huge difference in handling when I did my rear control arms and panhard, it really doesn't bounce anymore and is very controlled. My wheel hop was gone (which is why I did it) and it is even smoother over rough stuff. My stock control arms are actually twisted. Believe it or not, it is also the difference in bushing as much as the strength of the parts themselves. Any major suspension part other then the k-member (unless you are doing straight line) is worth replacing if you can afford to. BTW If you are looking for good parts at a reasonable price you should check out UMI in our sponsors link, I am very happy with the parts I bought from them. Good luck with it.
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 04-15-2006, 11:59 AM
Z28SHAKER Z28SHAKER is offline
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:smt045 ^^^ exactly, oh and another thing all of those suspention mods help with the little squeeks, rattles from t-tops and from the rear hatch.


i actually just switched to the stage II panhard, has a DELRIN insert peice, and the bushings are a little thinner so there is less flex.

while i was changing the old panhard i noticed that the upper panhard support looks pretty shabby, so i am actually designing a tubular upper panhard rod on my spare time at work (CNC Tech)
i have only seen them made for the new mustangs so i figured what the hell is the use of a regular panhard bar with no reinforcement to the upper panhard.

im sure rare 4th gens knows what im talking about but if noone else does its right above the panhard bolted to the same brackets.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 04-15-2006, 12:08 PM
WishIHadACamaro WishIHadACamaro is offline
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^ yeah jon does indeed know what hes talking abotu.
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 05-17-2006, 11:59 PM
06camarodude 06camarodude is offline
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I drove my car all last winter. . . No torque problems. . . Now, in the spring, when the roads are clear and dry, everytime I touch the gas, the damn tires start squealing. . . Maybe I shouldn't dump the clutch like that anymore? lol j/k
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