Stall KIT + rear end question

[Bandit79]

This is for a 79 Trans am with an 403 which should be pushin about 350HP 500's Ftlbs...

OK, i need some advice... I pulled my motor and transmission last fall and I'm thinking of doing a few things to the transmission as well. I kind of want a 4 speed, but i dont know if it would be woth the expense of all the parts and headaches...is this do-able within reason?

and if not, ill keep the auto. My other question is a shift kit worth the money? and i need advice on what kind of stall converter i should install, aslo i have 2.83 out back, what should I upgrade that to?

any help would be greatly appreciated thanks!

[Ta Jay]

Originally Posted by Bandit79

This is for a 79 Trans am with an 403 which should be pushin about 350HP 500's Ftlbs...

OK, i need some advice... I pulled my motor and transmission last fall and I'm thinking of doing a few things to the transmission as well. I kind of want a 4 speed, but i dont know if it would be woth the expense of all the parts and headaches...is this do-able within reason?

and if not, ill keep the auto. My other question is a shift kit worth the money? and i need advice on what kind of stall converter i should install, aslo i have 2.83 out back, what should I upgrade that to?

any help would be greatly appreciated thanks!

well i say keep the auto. look at where the car is going to begin its power band. lets say 3K. so u would want a 3200 or 3K converter. that will put u right where the good stuff is. yes a shift kit is worth it. a stall makes the shifts really smooth but its taking to much time to shift. a shift kit is always a good thing with a stall. now you haveta look at the rear. the 283's will be a dog outta the hole and hurt ur converter. if you could up them to 323's or 355 then you would realy help the "whole" equation.

[Rare4thgens]

If I were you I would call Hughe performance in Tucson and tell them your exact specs for the cluthc. If you don't get it dynoed you can get ahold of a copy of a program called Dyno 2000, at least that is what I think it is called. It can give you a pretty accurate figure to base it on.

I would keep the auto unless you have money burning a hole in your pocket. If i remember right you have a th400, they are strong as you know what and you can do a lot of mods to them including gear ratios. If you want strentgh and economy you should look into a 200 (BOP)over drive unit but I think they can get very expensive. Back to the 400. If you are going to drive it a lot I wouldn't go higher then a 2500 with a decent flash. You should gear it a little higher too but when you start talking anything over 4's you use a shit load of fuel and not be able to get on the express (I mean in 65-70 mph zones) way without gettting run over. Tire size plays in too of course.

Let me know if you need any phone numbers or what not. I actually have internet at home in Ohio now so people can actually get ahold of me.

[pman]

I agree with that motor you should maybe go around 2500-2800 stall. What rpm do you plan to shift at? My fav are 3:73s i dont think you can go wrong with those.

[WishIHadACamaro]

Originally Posted by pman

I agree with that motor you should maybe go around 2500-2800 stall. What rpm do you plan to shift at? My fav are 3:73s i dont think you can go wrong with those.

3.73s are just all around good for any kind of driving your vehicle will go through

[trigger]

Originally Posted by Rare4thgens

If I were you I would call Hughe performance in Tucson and tell them your exact specs for the cluthc. If you don't get it dynoed you can get ahold of a copy of a program called Dyno 2000, at least that is what I think it is called. It can give you a pretty accurate figure to base it on.

I would keep the auto unless you have money burning a hole in your pocket. If i remember right you have a th400, they are strong as you know what and you can do a lot of mods to them including gear ratios. If you want strentgh and economy you should look into a 200 (BOP)over drive unit but I think they can get very expensive. Back to the 400. If you are going to drive it a lot I wouldn't go higher then a 2500 with a decent flash. You should gear it a little higher too but when you start talking anything over 4's you use a shit load of fuel and not be able to get on the express (I mean in 65-70 mph zones) way without gettting run over. Tire size plays in too of course.

Let me know if you need any phone numbers or what not. I actually have internet at home in Ohio now so people can actually get ahold of me.

I believe these cars came equipped with th350's.

[WishIHadACamaro]

Its Hydramatic! :smt048

[Bandit79]

Yeah upon further investigation it is in fact a th350, but i plan on takin it to a transmission shop and possibly have it rebuilt along with the shift kit installed.

Ill prolly go with a 2500 stall and 3.42 maybe 3.73 gears out back.

[Ta Jay]

just as a rule of thumb, pik the converter u want and get the next one bigger. TRUST ME!

[Admin]

Originally Posted by Ta Jay

just as a rule of thumb, pik the converter u want and get the next one bigger. TRUST ME!

All depends what type of setup you want!!!

If you're looking to race all the time, pick a big converter, but make sure you have a decent side wall(small rim.) Don't pick low profile!

If you race occasionaly at the strip, but love to cruise more like me, go mild. It's as simple as that!!!!!

One thing Jay told me is he likes driving his bike now because of the gas mileage. Hence the (big converter on his TA)! Jay said it guzzles gas like no other now. I personally would like to keep my mileage around where it is at right now and go with a mild converter and still have low profile tires. That's just me!!! Most people go balls out with there cars, I'm fine with running 12s in the 1/4.

Most people on LS1tech go with big converters!!!