my car sux! - Page 3

Rare4thgens · #21 (**permalink**) 12-30-2005, 11:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clutch

it has been a very very very very lllloooonnnngggg week! i can't believe i forgot how to tell if the bat is dead! :smt039 i figured it out about 20 mins after the last post, bat is 12.7 off and 14.1 runnin. i really didn't need to do that to figure out what the prob is, (once again LLOONNGG week). my starter silinoid/motor are bad. i notice when it's gonna shit out on me, the dummy lights come on real slow and the chime is quiet. i can sit there and turn the car off and try and start it repetedly (many many times) and the last 2 of 3 times (today i just gave up and came back bout 2 hrs later) it's kicked the starter over and started up. now comes the fun part, getting the new one and crawling my old ass under the damn thing.

i'll be prayin it don't fall on me, i had my 89 rustang fall on me during a oil pan gasket change (oh the pain, oh the agony!!!). this is why i need my own garage! with expensive lifts!!!!

thanks for the help tho ry.

Sorry so late to the conversation but I just finished studying this shit so I figured I would stick in my 2. While not running, the battery should have at least 75% (12.6 out of 13.6+) after taking the surfcae charge if any off (20A load for 1 minute and rest for 3). If it drops under 9.6V under load (starting) then you have a bad battery. You can test the ground and insulated circuits for the starter too as well as the generator. Check for VD and voltage on both. The charging circuit should be within 10% of spec (in amps). I can give you more info as to how if you need, jus let me know.

Clutch · #22 (**permalink**) 12-31-2005, 02:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WishIHadACamaro

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clutch

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ta Jay

i like to let my friends work on my car. then i can blame them. :smt025

i had a friend f-up a set of rotor bearings and it destroyed the rotor and the inner casing "welded" itself to the spindle. he refused to replace the parts for me so i gave the cops a little info on the owner of a pot plant. somehow he talked his way outta it tho. :smt017

yeah that doesnt sound like a friend to me. I dont let anyone touch my car unless they are in school for automotives or ASE certified.

well, first off he wasn't a friend (found this out later when my ex-fiancee cheated on me and left me for him (THANK GOD!)) and at that i shoulda known better. at the time i had gotten the car, it needed a starter. he kept swearing that the windshield wiper motor was the starter. at this point in time i didn't know my asshole from my elbow when it came to cars, but i knew damn well that wasn't the starter! on top of that, he put oil in his fiancee's (my ex-fiancee) NEW hondai and forgot the cap. now the motor knocks like a drum corp!

Clutch · #23 (**permalink**) 12-31-2005, 02:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rare4thgens

Sorry so late to the conversation but I just finished studying this shit so I figured I would stick in my 2. While not running, the battery should have at least 75% (12.6 out of 13.6+) after taking the surfcae charge if any off (20A load for 1 minute and rest for 3). If it drops under 9.6V under load (starting) then you have a bad battery. You can test the ground and insulated circuits for the starter too as well as the generator. Check for VD and voltage on both. The charging circuit should be within 10% of spec (in amps). I can give you more info as to how if you need, jus let me know.

how do i check the starter circuts?

with the multimeter how can i check the alternator and where can i find the specs?

and how should i go about takin the surface charge off, what should i turn on or do?

like i said, it's prolly the starter solinoid eatin up too much juice or the motor on the starter going bad and stickin, cause it only happens once and a while. it just did it again today and all i did was keep turning the key and shuttin it off. eventually it started to crank and (not sure why, fuel inj'd motor) i had to step on the gas to get it to turn over. i know you havta prime a carb b4 start, never had to with a efi motor.

i still would like to learn this stuff (and learnin for free is awesome!) if ya don't mind giving me some knowledge.

thanx bro

WishIHadACamaro · #24 (**permalink**) 12-31-2005, 10:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clutch

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rare4thgens

Sorry so late to the conversation but I just finished studying this shit so I figured I would stick in my 2. While not running, the battery should have at least 75% (12.6 out of 13.6+) after taking the surfcae charge if any off (20A load for 1 minute and rest for 3). If it drops under 9.6V under load (starting) then you have a bad battery. You can test the ground and insulated circuits for the starter too as well as the generator. Check for VD and voltage on both. The charging circuit should be within 10% of spec (in amps). I can give you more info as to how if you need, jus let me know.

how do i check the starter circuts?

with the multimeter how can i check the alternator and where can i find the specs?

and how should i go about takin the surface charge off, what should i turn on or do?

like i said, it's prolly the starter solinoid eatin up too much juice or the motor on the starter going bad and stickin, cause it only happens once and a while. it just did it again today and all i did was keep turning the key and shuttin it off. eventually it started to crank and (not sure why, fuel inj'd motor) i had to step on the gas to get it to turn over. i know you havta prime a carb b4 start, never had to with a efi motor.

i still would like to learn this stuff (and learnin for free is awesome!) if ya don't mind giving me some knowledge.

thanx bro

time for a new car?

Clutch · #25 (**permalink**) 12-31-2005, 01:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WishIHadACamaro

time for a new car?

nope, not yet. it's a 93 lesabre, rebuilt motor 36k and rebuilt trans 4 to 5k. just need to replace the starter, front brakes and p/s ball joints. best car i've had outta 7 cars i've owned (currently just the buick and 66 stang)

WishIHadACamaro · #26 (**permalink**) 12-31-2005, 03:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clutch

Quote:

Originally Posted by WishIHadACamaro

time for a new car?

nope, not yet. it's a 93 lesabre, rebuilt motor 36k and rebuilt trans 4 to 5k. just need to replace the starter, front brakes and p/s ball joints. best car i've had outta 7 cars i've owned (currently just the buick and 66 stang)

ah definitely a keeper.

Clutch · #27 (**permalink**) 12-31-2005, 03:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WishIHadACamaro

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clutch

Quote:

Originally Posted by WishIHadACamaro

time for a new car?

nope, not yet. it's a 93 lesabre, rebuilt motor 36k and rebuilt trans 4 to 5k. just need to replace the starter, front brakes and p/s ball joints. best car i've had outta 7 cars i've owned (currently just the buick and 66 stang)

ah definitely a keeper.

i may need a new set of heads in a while, i kinda got a valve tap going on. not sure why :smt017 maybe layin into it wasn't a good idea after all :smt021

Rare4thgens · #28 (**permalink**) 01-01-2006, 09:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clutch

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rare4thgens

Sorry so late to the conversation but I just finished studying this shit so I figured I would stick in my 2. While not running, the battery should have at least 75% (12.6 out of 13.6+) after taking the surfcae charge if any off (20A load for 1 minute and rest for 3). If it drops under 9.6V under load (starting) then you have a bad battery. You can test the ground and insulated circuits for the starter too as well as the generator. Check for VD and voltage on both. The charging circuit should be within 10% of spec (in amps). I can give you more info as to how if you need, jus let me know.

how do i check the starter circuts?

with the multimeter how can i check the alternator and where can i find the specs?

and how should i go about takin the surface charge off, what should i turn on or do?

like i said, it's prolly the starter solinoid eatin up too much juice or the motor on the starter going bad and stickin, cause it only happens once and a while. it just did it again today and all i did was keep turning the key and shuttin it off. eventually it started to crank and (not sure why, fuel inj'd motor) i had to step on the gas to get it to turn over. i know you havta prime a carb b4 start, never had to with a efi motor.

i still would like to learn this stuff (and learnin for free is awesome!) if ya don't mind giving me some knowledge.

thanx bro

I will have to wait til I get back to school, your askin for like 3 pages of info lol. Your specs should be at any auto parts store by the part number or of course in a service manual. You also need an auto ranging DMM (at least that is what I learned on). I will try to get the rest on here asap.

White Phoenix · #29 (**permalink**) 01-02-2006, 03:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clutch

Quote:

Originally Posted by WishIHadACamaro

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clutch

Quote:

Originally Posted by WishIHadACamaro

time for a new car?

nope, not yet. it's a 93 lesabre, rebuilt motor 36k and rebuilt trans 4 to 5k. just need to replace the starter, front brakes and p/s ball joints. best car i've had outta 7 cars i've owned (currently just the buick and 66 stang)

ah definitely a keeper.

i may need a new set of heads in a while, i kinda got a valve tap going on. not sure why :smt017 maybe layin into it wasn't a good idea after all :smt021

this a OHC of pushrod motor? if your having valve tap then the issue is probably a valve spring... or a bent valve