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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 04-18-2006, 08:19 PM
Rare4thgens Rare4thgens is offline
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Location: Waterford MI
My Ride: 1994 Z28 1Le, 96 Comp T/A #117, 1970 GMC, 1983 Chevy 4x4 and 1986 LIncoln Town Car Signature Series
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Quote:
Originally Posted by z28 justin
I've tried letting the fuel pump run before starting and it doesn't seem to make a difference. It's a 95, so I have the OBDI I think. I was wondering about the coil if I possibly messed it up when I accidentally knocked the main wire loose with the intake pipe and tried to start it to see a big arc. I plugged it back on and it started right up at the time. Not sure if I could have damaged it or not. I got lazy and didn't replace the fuel filter like I was going to because I had no idea what ta12sec was talking about pulling a fuse. If I just pull the filter out will it damage anything, or just get me wet?

OK, that big arc is a bad thing and yes, it could be damaged. You can't pull a coil on a modern EFI car like an old Carb car. They switched to OBDII in late 95 so check to see if you have a single or double connector coil or just check your build date/Vin and I might be able to tell yah.

As for changing the filter, it is cake walk. Make sure the filter is facing the right direction (arrow pointing towards flow), you don't have any static electricity on yah and keep the fuel away from your eyes and arm pits etc.... a little will run out so have a bucket ready. As long as the pump isn't operating that is so leave the key out or off of course. I am guessing you mean to replace it, you can't leave it out if you meant otherwise. Good luck
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94 Z28 1LE (one of 135)

96 Comp T/A #117 (one of 45)

70 GMC 3/4 with a blown SB chevy (not supercharged just blown to pieces)

86 Lincoln Town Car

83 Chevy K10

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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 04-24-2006, 02:20 PM
z28 justin z28 justin is offline
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I replaced the fuel filter and it definately didn't solve the problem. I'll run some resistance tests on the coil when I get a chance. Someone suggested possibly a crank position sensor may be bad and that's why it just cranks and cranks without kicking over. I'll let you guys know if the coil is giving me funny numbers, but it prolly won't be till the weekend.
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1995 Z28. M6. 4.10 Gears,Eaton Posi.
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308 RW-HP 330RW-Torque
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 05-16-2006, 04:44 PM
z28 justin z28 justin is offline
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The coil seems to be ok. I tried to start the car the other day and heard a weird clicking noise. I looked while someone else cranked and the coil was arcing thru the output wire to an oil return hose which moves to the intake. This should not be able to happen. Are my distributor cap and rotor just f*ed up so the coil is sending out a spark but has nowhere for it to go to? I was thinking a new cap, rotor, wires, and plugs should solve this problem, what do you guys think??
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1995 Z28. M6. 4.10 Gears,Eaton Posi.
LT4 Top End.
308 RW-HP 330RW-Torque
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 05-16-2006, 06:07 PM
WishIHadACamaro WishIHadACamaro is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by z28 justin
The coil seems to be ok. I tried to start the car the other day and heard a weird clicking noise. I looked while someone else cranked and the coil was arcing thru the output wire to an oil return hose which moves to the intake. This should not be able to happen. Are my distributor cap and rotor just f*ed up so the coil is sending out a spark but has nowhere for it to go to? I was thinking a new cap, rotor, wires, and plugs should solve this problem, what do you guys think??

your going to need a new ignition coil wire. Your coil wire is arcing because it *has* a place to go.

Apparently you have a cut or tiny slice or whatever on the coil wire, your oil return hose is grounded and therefore in close contact it is sparking.
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