» Sponsors
» Sponsored Links


Go Back   SEMB Muscle Car Club > Tech Section > Ford - Muscle Car Development > Ford Other
Frontpage Menu Today's Posts iTrader Contact Us Register

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 01-03-2005, 09:40 AM
chuckspeed chuckspeed is offline
Junior Member
 

Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: spittin' dist frm woodward
iTrader: (0)
Posts: 506
Cheap Speed - Thermostat = HP

Back in the old days (read carburetors and leaded fuel), cars ran on 180 degree t-stats. We'd crank up the compression by milling the heads, only to have the motor spark knock like a mutha. This could be offset by running a cooler stat - like 160 degrees.

Nowadays, the engine management system is calibrated to run on a 195-197 degree t-stat with knock sensing on most engines. What this means is the motor will retard its spark when a knock is sensed. Also, most motors are calibrated to run a softer state of tune when operating temps are hit.

This can be offset by running a cooler thermostat. If you have a daily driver and need the heater, a 180 stat is the hot ticket. If you have a summer only ride - a 160 degree stat will work wonders.

The 160 stat will accomplish several things. First, it reduces the chance of knocking - insuring optimal advance curves at all times. Second, most engine management systems do not go into 'closed loop' mode (where A/F ratios are managed by the O2 sensor) until 165 degrees is reached. The motor runs on a default mix - usually a tad richer with more initial advance. On a mildly modded motor, this is a good thing. What the stat does is 'fool' the computer into running a better program - for HP, that is!

Finally - piston-to-cylinder clearances are a tad looser when you run a cooler stat. This translates into less frictional losses, and more HP to the rear wheels. This comes at a cost, tho - the engine may choose to use more oil.

I don't like callin' out HP gains, but this mod is usually good for another 5-7 HP on a typical V8.

Not bad for a ten buck part!
Reply With Quote
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 01-03-2005, 03:55 PM
WishIHadACamaro WishIHadACamaro is offline
Veteran Member
 

Join Date: Nov 2004
iTrader: (0)
Posts: 6,298
Not bad at all.
__________________
Reply With Quote
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 01-03-2005, 07:30 PM
02BlkragtopZ
 

Posts: n/a
Re: Cheap Speed - Thermostat = HP

Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckspeed
Back in the old days (read carburetors and leaded fuel), cars ran on 180 degree t-stats. We'd crank up the compression by milling the heads, only to have the motor spark knock like a mutha. This could be offset by running a cooler stat - like 160 degrees.

Nowadays, the engine management system is calibrated to run on a 195-197 degree t-stat with knock sensing on most engines. What this means is the motor will retard its spark when a knock is sensed. Also, most motors are calibrated to run a softer state of tune when operating temps are hit.

This can be offset by running a cooler thermostat. If you have a daily driver and need the heater, a 180 stat is the hot ticket. If you have a summer only ride - a 160 degree stat will work wonders.

The 160 stat will accomplish several things. First, it reduces the chance of knocking - insuring optimal advance curves at all times. Second, most engine management systems do not go into 'closed loop' mode (where A/F ratios are managed by the O2 sensor) until 165 degrees is reached. The motor runs on a default mix - usually a tad richer with more initial advance. On a mildly modded motor, this is a good thing. What the stat does is 'fool' the computer into running a better program - for HP, that is!

Finally - piston-to-cylinder clearances are a tad looser when you run a cooler stat. This translates into less frictional losses, and more HP to the rear wheels. This comes at a cost, tho - the engine may choose to use more oil.

I don't like callin' out HP gains, but this mod is usually good for another 5-7 HP on a typical V8.

Not bad for a ten buck part!

Did this one, easyto do.......but a bit more than 10 bones for an '02 LS1 :smt023
Reply With Quote
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 01-03-2005, 09:53 PM
chuckspeed chuckspeed is offline
Junior Member
 

Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: spittin' dist frm woodward
iTrader: (0)
Posts: 506
Re: Cheap Speed - Thermostat = HP

Quote:
Originally Posted by 02BlkragtopZ
Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckspeed
Back in the old days (read carburetors and leaded fuel), cars ran on 180 degree t-stats. We'd crank up the compression by milling the heads, only to have the motor spark knock like a mutha. This could be offset by running a cooler stat - like 160 degrees.

Nowadays, the engine management system is calibrated to run on a 195-197 degree t-stat with knock sensing on most engines. What this means is the motor will retard its spark when a knock is sensed. Also, most motors are calibrated to run a softer state of tune when operating temps are hit.

This can be offset by running a cooler thermostat. If you have a daily driver and need the heater, a 180 stat is the hot ticket. If you have a summer only ride - a 160 degree stat will work wonders.

The 160 stat will accomplish several things. First, it reduces the chance of knocking - insuring optimal advance curves at all times. Second, most engine management systems do not go into 'closed loop' mode (where A/F ratios are managed by the O2 sensor) until 165 degrees is reached. The motor runs on a default mix - usually a tad richer with more initial advance. On a mildly modded motor, this is a good thing. What the stat does is 'fool' the computer into running a better program - for HP, that is!

Finally - piston-to-cylinder clearances are a tad looser when you run a cooler stat. This translates into less frictional losses, and more HP to the rear wheels. This comes at a cost, tho - the engine may choose to use more oil.

I don't like callin' out HP gains, but this mod is usually good for another 5-7 HP on a typical V8.

Not bad for a ten buck part!

Did this one, easyto do.......but a bit more than 10 bones for an '02 LS1 :smt023

I've forgotten the part numbers and nomeclature, but a Ford T-stat is bigger than a GM - or vice versa. One is cheaper than the other; I've bought the bigger diameter part in a pinch and ground the OD down to the smaller diameter to get it to fit. I've owned 35+ cars, I forget which one I did this on!

The *worst* thing you can hear on a stat swap is this little 'tink' sound when tightening the stat cover. That's the sound of the ear of the cover breaking off - DOH! This, of course, happens five minutes B4 the auto parts store closes for the weekend.

Don't ask me how I know.

From the school of hard knocks (and tinks),

Chuck.
Reply With Quote
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 01-03-2005, 10:05 PM
02BlkragtopZ
 

Posts: n/a
Re: Cheap Speed - Thermostat = HP

Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckspeed
Quote:
Originally Posted by 02BlkragtopZ
Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckspeed
Back in the old days (read carburetors and leaded fuel), cars ran on 180 degree t-stats. We'd crank up the compression by milling the heads, only to have the motor spark knock like a mutha. This could be offset by running a cooler stat - like 160 degrees.

Nowadays, the engine management system is calibrated to run on a 195-197 degree t-stat with knock sensing on most engines. What this means is the motor will retard its spark when a knock is sensed. Also, most motors are calibrated to run a softer state of tune when operating temps are hit.

This can be offset by running a cooler thermostat. If you have a daily driver and need the heater, a 180 stat is the hot ticket. If you have a summer only ride - a 160 degree stat will work wonders.

The 160 stat will accomplish several things. First, it reduces the chance of knocking - insuring optimal advance curves at all times. Second, most engine management systems do not go into 'closed loop' mode (where A/F ratios are managed by the O2 sensor) until 165 degrees is reached. The motor runs on a default mix - usually a tad richer with more initial advance. On a mildly modded motor, this is a good thing. What the stat does is 'fool' the computer into running a better program - for HP, that is!

Finally - piston-to-cylinder clearances are a tad looser when you run a cooler stat. This translates into less frictional losses, and more HP to the rear wheels. This comes at a cost, tho - the engine may choose to use more oil.

I don't like callin' out HP gains, but this mod is usually good for another 5-7 HP on a typical V8.

Not bad for a ten buck part!

Did this one, easyto do.......but a bit more than 10 bones for an '02 LS1 :smt023

I've forgotten the part numbers and nomeclature, but a Ford T-stat is bigger than a GM - or vice versa. One is cheaper than the other; I've bought the bigger diameter part in a pinch and ground the OD down to the smaller diameter to get it to fit. I've owned 35+ cars, I forget which one I did this on!

The *worst* thing you can hear on a stat swap is this little 'tink' sound when tightening the stat cover. That's the sound of the ear of the cover breaking off - DOH! This, of course, happens five minutes B4 the auto parts store closes for the weekend.

Don't ask me how I know.

From the school of hard knocks (and tinks),

Chuck.

LOL. Up here by me you'd best have everything you want/need plus some extra just for s&g's by like 3pm on Sun or you are SOL if you need a part to get 'er runnin' by Monday!

BTW: My LS1 housing/stat is an all-in-one runnin me about Fity-Dolla. :smt045
Reply With Quote
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 01-03-2005, 10:33 PM
chuckspeed chuckspeed is offline
Junior Member
 

Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: spittin' dist frm woodward
iTrader: (0)
Posts: 506
Re: Cheap Speed - Thermostat = HP

Quote:
Originally Posted by 02BlkragtopZ
Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckspeed
Quote:
Originally Posted by 02BlkragtopZ
Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckspeed
Back in the old days (read carburetors and leaded fuel), cars ran on 180 degree t-stats. We'd crank up the compression by milling the heads, only to have the motor spark knock like a mutha. This could be offset by running a cooler stat - like 160 degrees.

Nowadays, the engine management system is calibrated to run on a 195-197 degree t-stat with knock sensing on most engines. What this means is the motor will retard its spark when a knock is sensed. Also, most motors are calibrated to run a softer state of tune when operating temps are hit.

This can be offset by running a cooler thermostat. If you have a daily driver and need the heater, a 180 stat is the hot ticket. If you have a summer only ride - a 160 degree stat will work wonders.

The 160 stat will accomplish several things. First, it reduces the chance of knocking - insuring optimal advance curves at all times. Second, most engine management systems do not go into 'closed loop' mode (where A/F ratios are managed by the O2 sensor) until 165 degrees is reached. The motor runs on a default mix - usually a tad richer with more initial advance. On a mildly modded motor, this is a good thing. What the stat does is 'fool' the computer into running a better program - for HP, that is!

Finally - piston-to-cylinder clearances are a tad looser when you run a cooler stat. This translates into less frictional losses, and more HP to the rear wheels. This comes at a cost, tho - the engine may choose to use more oil.

I don't like callin' out HP gains, but this mod is usually good for another 5-7 HP on a typical V8.

Not bad for a ten buck part!

Did this one, easyto do.......but a bit more than 10 bones for an '02 LS1 :smt023

I've forgotten the part numbers and nomeclature, but a Ford T-stat is bigger than a GM - or vice versa. One is cheaper than the other; I've bought the bigger diameter part in a pinch and ground the OD down to the smaller diameter to get it to fit. I've owned 35+ cars, I forget which one I did this on!

The *worst* thing you can hear on a stat swap is this little 'tink' sound when tightening the stat cover. That's the sound of the ear of the cover breaking off - DOH! This, of course, happens five minutes B4 the auto parts store closes for the weekend.

Don't ask me how I know.

From the school of hard knocks (and tinks),

Chuck.

LOL. Up here by me you'd best have everything you want/need plus some extra just for s&g's by like 3pm on Sun or you are SOL if you need a part to get 'er runnin' by Monday!

BTW: My LS1 housing/stat is an all-in-one runnin me about Fity-Dolla. :smt045

Okay - that reminds me of a story:

We were off roadin' in da UP inna Pinto back in 1980. We were midway between Lake Michigan and Lake Superior when we punched a stump into the oil pan and cracked it at the oil drain.

I drove that thing like a WILD MAN - dirt over the top of the car as it bottomed out in the whoops - back to Seney. Got it to the gas station as the last pint of oil left the pan - honest. Oil gauge had dropped a half mile earlier (this was a Rallye Pinto - they made such a silly-assed thing), so it coasted in.

This was Friday @ 4:00. I called my parents downstate; they were on their way up; had them pick up an oil pan ($80) and run it up.

We blew a wad on beer and pool at Andy's Seney Bar waiting for my friend Kelly to pick us up after work. Installed the pan the next day by bribing the mech at the gas station to use his tools and lift.

I *get* whatcha mean by havin' the part on hand. Man - those were the days!
Reply With Quote
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 01-04-2005, 12:08 AM
02BlkragtopZ
 

Posts: n/a
Re: Cheap Speed - Thermostat = HP

Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckspeed
Quote:
Originally Posted by 02BlkragtopZ
Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckspeed
Quote:
Originally Posted by 02BlkragtopZ
Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckspeed
Back in the old days (read carburetors and leaded fuel), cars ran on 180 degree t-stats. We'd crank up the compression by milling the heads, only to have the motor spark knock like a mutha. This could be offset by running a cooler stat - like 160 degrees.

Nowadays, the engine management system is calibrated to run on a 195-197 degree t-stat with knock sensing on most engines. What this means is the motor will retard its spark when a knock is sensed. Also, most motors are calibrated to run a softer state of tune when operating temps are hit.

This can be offset by running a cooler thermostat. If you have a daily driver and need the heater, a 180 stat is the hot ticket. If you have a summer only ride - a 160 degree stat will work wonders.

The 160 stat will accomplish several things. First, it reduces the chance of knocking - insuring optimal advance curves at all times. Second, most engine management systems do not go into 'closed loop' mode (where A/F ratios are managed by the O2 sensor) until 165 degrees is reached. The motor runs on a default mix - usually a tad richer with more initial advance. On a mildly modded motor, this is a good thing. What the stat does is 'fool' the computer into running a better program - for HP, that is!

Finally - piston-to-cylinder clearances are a tad looser when you run a cooler stat. This translates into less frictional losses, and more HP to the rear wheels. This comes at a cost, tho - the engine may choose to use more oil.

I don't like callin' out HP gains, but this mod is usually good for another 5-7 HP on a typical V8.

Not bad for a ten buck part!

Did this one, easyto do.......but a bit more than 10 bones for an '02 LS1 :smt023

I've forgotten the part numbers and nomeclature, but a Ford T-stat is bigger than a GM - or vice versa. One is cheaper than the other; I've bought the bigger diameter part in a pinch and ground the OD down to the smaller diameter to get it to fit. I've owned 35+ cars, I forget which one I did this on!

The *worst* thing you can hear on a stat swap is this little 'tink' sound when tightening the stat cover. That's the sound of the ear of the cover breaking off - DOH! This, of course, happens five minutes B4 the auto parts store closes for the weekend.

Don't ask me how I know.

From the school of hard knocks (and tinks),

Chuck.

LOL. Up here by me you'd best have everything you want/need plus some extra just for s&g's by like 3pm on Sun or you are SOL if you need a part to get 'er runnin' by Monday!

BTW: My LS1 housing/stat is an all-in-one runnin me about Fity-Dolla. :smt045

Okay - that reminds me of a story:

We were off roadin' in da UP inna Pinto back in 1980. We were midway between Lake Michigan and Lake Superior when we punched a stump into the oil pan and cracked it at the oil drain.

I drove that thing like a WILD MAN - dirt over the top of the car as it bottomed out in the whoops - back to Seney. Got it to the gas station as the last pint of oil left the pan - honest. Oil gauge had dropped a half mile earlier (this was a Rallye Pinto - they made such a silly-assed thing), so it coasted in.

This was Friday @ 4:00. I called my parents downstate; they were on their way up; had them pick up an oil pan ($80) and run it up.

We blew a wad on beer and pool at Andy's Seney Bar waiting for my friend Kelly to pick us up after work. Installed the pan the next day by bribing the mech at the gas station to use his tools and lift.

I *get* whatcha mean by havin' the part on hand. Man - those were the days!

Ahhhhh, the "Seeny Stretch". I shall be cruisin 'er later this week! Now if I have an emergency up there,..... thank goodness for On-Star :smt023
Reply With Quote
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 01-04-2005, 03:07 AM
WishIHadACamaro WishIHadACamaro is offline
Veteran Member
 

Join Date: Nov 2004
iTrader: (0)
Posts: 6,298
anyone ever had to use their onstar in a pinch? I was just curious what stories people have about that, and or how useful it actually is to have around.

I dont have it but im never really isolated from people or someone whos willing to give a tow or grab a part on their way to get me.
__________________
Reply With Quote
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 01-04-2005, 10:13 AM
02BlkragtopZ
 

Posts: n/a
Never had to use it in a pinch yet.(knock on wood**) However, the On-Star phone itself is worth it in the UP since the only time you get a good signal on your cell phone is when your in a bigger city. The Soo, Marquette, etc. (damn, I hate crossing that bridge in the Winter :smt022 )
Reply With Quote
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 01-05-2005, 02:32 AM
WishIHadACamaro WishIHadACamaro is offline
Veteran Member
 

Join Date: Nov 2004
iTrader: (0)
Posts: 6,298
Quote:
Originally Posted by 02BlkragtopZ
Never had to use it in a pinch yet.(knock on wood**) However, the On-Star phone itself is worth it in the UP since the only time you get a good signal on your cell phone is when your in a bigger city. The Soo, Marquette, etc. (damn, I hate crossing that bridge in the Winter :smt022 )

i have not been up there since ive been able to drive so i am very unfamiliar, which bridge and why? Curiosity again. lol.
__________________
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 02:00 AM.

 

Słownik angielski - Loans - Mortgage Calculator - Debt Help - Mobile Phones test
Powered by vBulletin Version 3.5.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2008, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
SEO by vBSEO 3.0.0 RC8

Designed by Military Design