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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 11-23-2005, 06:15 PM
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Clutch Clutch is offline
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check out tccoa.com (there is a membership fee, but with very nice discounts, my girl showed me the site, too bad she let a ricer f*ck her bird up), for more ideas and info and you guys can :smt021 beat me later for sending him to another forum, i'm here to help when i can (trust me it's not often i can help, so i do what i can).
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Horsepower tells how fast you can hit a wall . . . Torque lets you move the wall.
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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 11-23-2005, 07:20 PM
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heads, cam; compression; manifold; carb (or injectors); headers; small-bore, big stroke; oil; and finally, testing. nessicary for good performing engine. first, get past your peak horsepower. you motor may have a peak of say 650hp and 550f/lbs tq, but in your ave rpm you sit at 500 hp & f/lbs tq. now, you dont drive around at peak rpm (at least w/o blowing the motor apart), so this number isn't something to concentrate on. concentrate on your mid range numbers.

heads - good flowing heads will allow a better air/fuel mix and thus a better explosion. porting helps but isn't as important as everyone makes it out to be. also, smaller combustion chambers will help alot.

cams - get one that opens and closes the valves faster will improve power. look into desktop dyno, it allows you to build an engine on your comp (even super/pro/turbocharge it and hit it with No2) or talk to a mechanic. these are the best ways to find the best cam for your motor.

compression - 12.5:1 is a fave with performance motors, not good on a street car. once again use the dtd or talk to a mech to determine the best setting.

manifold - should at least match the flow of your heads, if not increase by 5-10 percent.

carb - the cfm may be more, but power may be the same or less, :smt018 don't put a super huge carb if the motor can't handle it. an 830cfm carb may give you good numbers, and poppin on a 1050cfm may give you the same set, if not lower numbers. don't know a lot about injectors, again use the dtd or talk to a mech.

headers - with headers, try and get 10% bigger than the exaust ports. dont go too big and try to keep the collector size down a bit for a small increase in power.

small-bore, big stroke - got this outta a mag. hard to explain :smt017 , but it works. trust me.

oil - light weight synthetic oil will produce a little more power. use an 8-qt pan with 5-6 qts. you will have more power than an 8qt pan with 8qts. keep oil press down, as it will wear out the cam and dist gears. windage trays are a nice touch and don't go with a huge powerful pump. 10 lbs of press for every 100 horses.

last but not least

testing - test your motor. dynos are expensive, but will fine tune your motor to near perfection.

than it comes down beefin up the trans, try a balanced aluminum driveshaft ( mustangsplus.com or mustangdepot.com ), and weight reduction - how often will someone be riding in the back seat? if not often i suggest removeing rear seat and replaceing it with a stereo box (for looks). take anything unnessicary to the function of the vehicle out.

i know you are on a budget and most of this is improbable for you (and for myself and many of us here). just some things to consider for your project. best of luck and you can pm me with any further questions (or if ya just wanna tell me to f*ck off). :smt023
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 11-23-2005, 08:00 PM
turbostang turbostang is offline
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my votes for 331 :)
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 12-16-2005, 01:57 AM
89lxhatch 89lxhatch is offline
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personally i recommend a na 308 i run one in my lx and and i make 412 hp and 465 ft lbs of tq to the ground, n/a. i have a d.s.s 308 with 10.5:1 copression ratio. a fms x-cam with 1.7 rockers trick flow track heat heads that have been ported by tea, a tfs 'r' series long runner intake manicold, 30 lb inj, 90 mm lightning maf 75 mm tb, long tubes, 3 in mac prochamber, and dumps. so i mean with the right parts its possible to make the amount of power n/a
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