Improve MPG’s
The bottom line here is that gas is a wasted expense and with the ridiculous prices almost everyone has given some thought to improving their mpg’s. This may not be popular with the horsepower junkies but I think there may be enough people on here that could use (or add to) this information. There are a few new things on here...before someone goes off and says it is the same old &$*!. Hope it helps. I would love to hear some other tips.
1 - Bed cover...tonneau or cap.
2 - Easy on acceleration and braking...this is probably the #2 contributor next to cruise speed, for mpg.
3 - PCM tune...increase low rpm torque (I believe this is part of what makes the PCM tune benefit MPG's.)
4 - Tune up...clean injectors (Sea Foam or ?), good plugs and wires (cap and rotor for those that have them :-) ).
5 - Increase your timing...but not to the point of detonation, obviously. Typically you can add at least 2 degrees (and probably 4) to the factory specs.
6 - Quality synthetic oil (engine, trans, rearend) has been proven to reduce friction and improve MPG's in various applications (plus other benefits).
7 - Don’t leave your climate control in defrost...the A/C pump runs (at least it used to).
8 - Lower your cruise speed by 5mph...driving 60 rather than 65 will only take about an extra 2.5 minutes on a 30 mile trip.
9 - The heavier the tire (wheel) and the larger the diameter the more power (fuel) it takes to turn them.
10 - Lower cruising rpm’s...for example, if you have a 2 wheel drive with 3.73’s and you are not pulling something heavy on a somewhat regular basis consider dropping to 3.42 or maybe as low as 3.08 depending on your tire and engine size. For example...my ‘05 2wd is equipped with 3.23’s and Tow/Haul so that should work for occasional towing...except for my boat that I want to sell :-) ...anyone looking for a Baja Outlaw :-) .
11 - Maximum fuel economy is achieved with outside air temps around 75 to 80 degrees. Warmer air flows better and causes fuel to vaporize quicker...it is the vapor that burns, not the liquid. With that in mind, up in the northern states, it is below that temp 85% of the time. I did this (Free) air box mod to help pull some of the warmer underhood air. Remove the fresh air duct on the side of your air box and duct tape the opening in the fender. Block (tape over) or remove the lower one (if equipped).
12 - (edit) I almost forgot the ever imporant tire pressure. Your tires are not inflated properly if you have the same air pressure in the front and rear (of an unloaded truck). This is what they have on the door stickers, though. You should have a flat contact patch on the road and the very slight sidewall bulge (on the contact area) should be the same for the front and rear. For example my 2wd is 42 psi front and 34 psi rear...my 4wd was 48 psi front and 32 psi rear. And you can save gas by not having to take them in for rotation, if you inflate them correctly...not per the door sticker. You would only need to rotate them a couple times, for the life of the tire, not every few thousand miles. Also, nitrogen fill is a line of bull for saving mpg's.
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